“To sew without patterns to measure with the eye, these processes influence my practice as does the cultural changes put to a garment through use in the street. The sheerness of a pair of boxers pulled over an ass, with the pants hanging low to expose the plain cotton brief at a glimpse. The way the doublets of the young aristocratic Englishmen were being worn, stitches torn from the sleeve hole to represent the worn look of the poorer classes. Everyone is stealing from street wear. Crispy T’s to hoodies in this collection.”—Anna Telcs, Aesthetic Dowsing, Watermill 2012
A two step procedure that involves structuring fabric into shallow pleats with rows of stitching, and regulating the tubes of the pleats with rows of embroidery. Elasticity is an English smocking attribute.
The Art of Manipulating Fabric, Colette Wolfe, Krause Publications Iola, Wisconsin 1996.
“Fashion’s most powerful accomplice is now, what we term, “the commercial interests”, the selfish desire of one man to enrich himself at the expense of the weakness in others. Where could a better field be found? Then too, the element of personal vanity has not been left out of any of us…”—The Psychology of Dress, 1924.