Original Garment
A vestment shaped like a sac. A slit at the top for the head. -1500 BC
February 2012
41 posts
2. Gohn Brother's Quilt
Dark Blue Wool Suiting
Medium Blue Plain Weave Cotton
Black Waxed Cotton Cording
Dark Kid Leather
1. Original Garment
First Look on DRCM: Whole Cloth Quilted Tunic Shown with Long Skirt
Plain Weave Cotton quilted with Bamboo Batting and Cotton Flannel Backing in Light Pink and Cream
Silk Bias Tape Binding in Pink Applied with Herringbone Stitches
Grosgrain Ribbon in Beige
Untreated Sheep Hair
Silk in Warm White
Plain Weave Cotton in Light Yellow
Poly Wrapped Thread with Cotton Core in Pink
“I went to work as if I understood everything, and finally, I understood very well.”
—Amalia de Fortabat
“To sew without patterns to measure with the eye, these processes influence my practice as does the cultural changes put to a garment through use in the street. The sheerness of a pair of boxers pulled over an ass, with the pants hanging low to expose the plain cotton brief at a glimpse. The way the doublets of the young aristocratic Englishmen were being worn, stitches torn from the sleeve hole to represent the worn look of the poorer classes. Everyone is stealing from street wear. Crispy T’s to hoodies in this collection.”
—Anna Telcs, Aesthetic Dowsing, Watermill 2012
English Smocking
A two step procedure that involves structuring fabric into shallow pleats with rows of stitching, and regulating the tubes of the pleats with rows of embroidery. Elasticity is an English smocking attribute.
The Art of Manipulating Fabric, Colette Wolfe, Krause Publications Iola, Wisconsin 1996.
“Fashion’s most powerful accomplice is now, what we term, “the commercial interests”, the selfish desire of one man to enrich himself at the expense of the weakness in others. Where could a better field be found? Then too, the element of personal vanity has not been left out of any of us…”
—The Psychology of Dress, 1924.
